Most visitors arriving at Phuket International Airport usually head south to the resorts and hotels that crowd the coast and the interior of the island. But while Phuket does offer excellent accommodation, shopping and entertainment, a more laidback destination that is also easily accessible from the same airport provides an alternative for those seeking to enjoy more of nature and the crystal-clear waters of the Andman Sea.

            Gifted with a string of glorious beaches caressed by the pristine waters of the Andaman Sea and considered one of the most outstanding ares of natural beauty in Thailand, Khao Lak is a spectacular 20-kilometre stretch of coastline between the towns of Tap Lamu and Takuapa. Nowhere else in the Kingdom do mountains and sea combine as harmoniously as they do here, and in such unspoiled splendour.

            What makes the Khao Lak area doubly attractive is its location in the heart of a natural wonderland, with four major national parks, Phang Nga bay and the Similan Islands all within easy striking distance. Most of the seashore and inland forest is protected as part of the Khao Lak Lam Ru National Park.  Famed for its many small waterfalls and two majestic mountains, the park is also the source of two important rivers and home to gibbons, tapirs, bears and a vast variety of bird species.

            For all the delight the mainland has to offer, Khao Lak’s rise as an up-and-coming holiday destination is inextricably linked with its close proximity to the famous Similan Islands that lie due west offshore. Consistently ranked among the top 10 scuba diving destinations in the world, the Similan Islands draw thousands of visitors each year on dive boats operating out of Phuket and Khao Lak.

            What makes the Similan Islands so special is the sheer diversity of marine life, both coral and fish, and the consistently high underwater visibility. “In the Similans you can find a little bit of everything. The quantity of fish you can see is quite amazing,” Schlapfer says.

            What also sets the Similans apart is the unusual geology that formed the nine islands that make up the archipelago. Those are not coral outcrops but rather massive granite boulders that have been weathered smooth over millions of years to create not only a stunning visual impression above water but also a dramatic and splendid landscape of swim-throughs, arches and caverns beneath the sea.

            While the sea-facing western coasts of the islands are rugged with strong currents, the eastern sides are calm and graced with white powder-sand beaches that conjure up everyone’s image of a perfect tropical island paradise and are excellent for snorkeling and diving.

            Close to the Similan Oslands archipelago are other world-famous dive sites. These include Ruchelieu Rock, one of the top listed sites for spotting whale sharks, and Koh Bon, where giant manta rays are regular visitors.

            Like Phuket and other parts of the Andaman coast, the Khao Lak area also suffered during the 2004 Asian tsunami, but the resilience and fortitude the local inhabitants have displayed in the face of the disaster has been quite remarkable.